07 & 08 May, 2019

Reliegos to León (km 445 to km 469)

Yesterday we stepped out of our Albergue into another fine day, looking forward to our arrival in the major Camino destination of León. We collected Leandro and Hannah from their albergue and walked to the town of Mansilla de las Mulas, which marks the beginning of León’s urban area.

Our group were in no mood to spend hours walking through the suburbs and around the major roadway system entering the city after the recent long walking days. León marked an important stop for all of us, and we were looking forward to getting there.

We caught one of the efficient inter city buses at Mansilla which deposited us outside León’s old town centre. In each main city the Camino makes a beeline to the main cathedral as part of its route. For this reason the square, or plaza, adjacent the cathedral becomes a key pilgrim meeting place, and the point where we finish a leg of the journey, and resume it later.

We easily located the Camino’s yellow arrows and followed it to León’s spectacular cathedral and plaza, where we promptly deposited ourselves at a cafe and bar for a beer and tapas. The beautiful sunshine, and sheer pleasure of being off our feet, defeated any intentions of quickly finding our accommodation, and over the next couple of hours we welcomed a steady stream of familiar faces.

Within a short while Matt “Monkey” from NZ arrived, his beaming face always a welcoming sight. We watched with amusement as Leo sat down with Monkey to play cards at a seperate table, engrossed in animated conversation. There was even greater amusement as Leo went into the bar and ordered a pint of beer for Matt, and a Coke Zero for himself, which was promptly delivered without question.

León’s cathedral is a majestic and stunning building, but it was the source of some disappointment for many pilgrims. The Cathedral is presently not used for regular masses, and entry for sightseeing by is by payment. Many other places of religious significance waived such fees for those holding a pilgrim’s credentiale, but not in this instance. Speaking to some travellers undertaking the Camino for religious reasons, the act of requiring payment to access one of the route’s major churches had soured the experience.

As the afternoon passed we broke up proceedings with a promise to reconvene on the next day. Leo and I were especially looking forward to our hotel stay and the thoughts of a protracted hot shower that was not time limited, and/or, without a broken shower head, filled our imaginations.

It had been an original hope to stay in the Parador Hotel in León as a special part of our journey. This hotel, in a converted former palace, features in “The Way” , a film which had been responsible for influencing our decision to come to The Camino. Unfortunately it was closed for renovation, but Jennie had located an equally special place for us to treat ourselves.

We walked a short distance through León’s stunning old city, armed with the address Jennie had provided, and our Google Maps app. We soon found ourselves standing in front of the spectacular San Isidoro basilica complex. Originating in Roman times, and developed progressively by a succession of different rulers, it presently accommodates a museum and hotel in addition to its basilica, which is used for daily masses. As we walked through the massive entry gates of the perimeter walls, and then a succession of courtyards and cloisters to the hotel reception, it was clear we were no longer in the world of albergues.

We showered, challenging the hotel’s hot water reserves in the process, before obtaining essential supplies. These included a large plastic tub from the Chinese $2 Bazaar shop and a bag of sea salt, for bathing our feet. This time we also opted for coconut-scented shampoo With which to wash our clothes.

To finish off the day we treated ourselves to a massage to help start untying tight feet, legs and shoulders. Our masseuse noted that Leo’s legs were inflamed from the recent walking, a timely warning that we would have to watch his pack weight if attempting long distances again.

Of all the luxuries, it was the open window and cool evening air that we appreciated the most. We had found that most albergues were well heated, and that our fellow pilgrims preferred closing all the windows at night, making sleeping conditions Often stifling.

The following day was notable for time spent resting, and our chance to say our farewells to several close friends.

Hannah was finishing her Camino in León. Having previously walked the tail end of the Camino from León to Santiago, she had returned to complete the front end of the journey. Hannah’s pending departure, and the end of her travelling companionship with Leandro, had been a source of concern for Leo. He had spent many kms talking with each of them individually, advising how their companionship might continue and their pending separation might be avoided, alas to no avail. We had a quick drink and tapas with them before giving Hannah our final farewells, leaving to allow Leandro to prepare a special last meal on their last day together.

In the evening we had a wonderful Italian meal opposite the cathedral with our ‘Canadan’ friends Kate and Barry. Kate’s feet had recovered to enable her to resume her walking, and they had let us know they were in town. Kate was due to finish her Camino in Astorga, the next major town, but would be moving at a slower pace and we were unlikely to cross paths again. Kate had become a wonderful ‘Camino Mum’ for Leo, providing nurturing support when things were getting tough, as well as sharing his love of the absurd. Our time together on the trail would be very fondly remembered. Barry was to continue onwards after Kate’s departure, and we would hopefully see him again, down the trail.

Settling down for a our second night of sleep in the glorious cold air, we reflected that for Leo’s Camino, it was the people who were making it an extraordinary adventure.

Accommodation: Hotel Real Colegiata San Isidoro, Leon

09 May,2019

León to Villadangos del Páramo (km 469 to km 490)

…..you can definitely see it from Villadangos del Páramo!

Ying is balanced by yang, light is contrasted by darkness, and all the beautiful parts of The Camino are balanced by the walk from León to Villadangos.

We stepped out of our León hotel this morning under a grey sky and followed the Camino out of the old city, looking forward to the quietness and beauty of the countryside once again. Unfortunately it never arrived.

For the first two hours we walked through grey urban areas, followed by the city’s industrial zone, filled with large warehouses and vandalised buildings. Evident everywhere were many buildings, incomplete, and probably untouched since the economic downturn a decade ago.

After awhile we left the buildings behind and found ourselves alone with the N-120 and a gravel pathway.

Englishman John Brierly, the author of the most popular guide to The Camino, has a particular dislike of major inter-city roads in proximity to The Camino, to the point of near obsessiveness. This is especially true of the N-120.

In most instances we found such roads comfortably co-exist with The Camino, usually being sufficiently distanced or screened from the pathway so as to not intrude. However, today we found ourselves agreeing with Mr Brierly wholeheartedly.

For the majority of the day The Way followed the shoulder of this major transport route, leaving walkers exposed to noise, dust and constant buffering from the slipstreams of passing semi-trailers. In many instances the pathway was the verge of the carriageway itself, and we were very mindful that the main danger to pilgrims is being hit by vehicles.

The sun tried valiantly to break through the grey skies, without success and pilgrims were left with little option but to hanker down and stoically trudge on.

Walking into Villadangos we found ourselves in the Spanish version of an interstate highway truck stop town. Our Hostel for the night was inches from the busy roadway, to the point that our room window and blind was kept firmly shut against the noise of trucks.

Nevertheless we were very pleased to get off the roadway and pull off our boots at the day’s end. As always, our hosts were delightful, and very appreciative when we made an attempt to communicate in Spanish, diplomatically choosing to ignore the absence of prepositions, correct tense and indeed many words altogether.Once again, it was the splashes of colour and positivity from the people we encountered that kept our spirits up.

Having been on the trail for several weeks now we thought we had developed some travel savvy, but we had to bow to the genius of Kate and Barry. When confronted with the prospect of a night in Villadangos, they simply caught a taxi back to León for the night, a mere 20 minutes away by car, and returned the next morning to continue. A evening relaxing on the cathedral square, followed by a night in a nice hotel, Brilliant.

At our day’s end we reflected on the positive aspects of another 20km walked, and that tomorrow we would arrive in Astorga, which marked the beginnings of the most beautiful part of the Camino Francés.

Continue reading “It’s not the end of the world, but……” →

10 May, 2019

Villadangos to Astorga (km 490 to km 519)

Today we passed the 500km mark of our journey as we made our way to the beautiful old town of Astorga.

Stepping out into another grey day we made quick time, determined to leave the grey flatlands and N-120 to distant memory. As we approached Astorga the beauty of The Way we had missed began to quickly re-assert itself and we felt our spirits lifting with each step. The flat farming land of the previous week quickly became rolling hills covered with greenery, and the horizon became dominated with tall snow-capped mountains.

We arrived into Astorga early, following the Camino markers into the walled old town, and its cathedral. On queue the grey skies cleared and the sun burst through with blue skies. Astorga proved itself a beautiful town with many old stone buildings preserved, and modern street art integrated into the public spaces.

We quickly found our accommodation, a groovy albergue in an old stone building, just a stone’s through from the cathedral. With all the jobs of hiking quickly discharged (shower, clothes washing and bunks set up) it was time to hit the streets.

First order of business was to visit Deportes Huracán, the last outdoor store on The Way before the upcoming mountain stages. James’ feet had been getting progressively more painful and the store owner immediately confirmed that his boots were at the end of their life, having effectively no sole or cushioning remaining. The Swiss are renowned for their thoroughness, and this store was thankfully no exception. Owned by a Swiss couple and their family, who had lived in the region for 20 years, it stocked a small but superb range of equipment tested and vetted by the staff. Only stocking the Swiss Mammut footwear range (on account of other brands not being serious hiking boot companies) James was required to try on all 8 models of walking boot suitable for The Camino in order to find the right one. A boot with moldable liner for immediate fit was the winner. The result was sheer bliss. It would take some time for the existing damage to heal but at least the source had been dealt with.

James’ mind dominated by the pleasure of happy feet, Leo felt it was only fair to update his collection of Camino travel pins and bracelets. The balance of the day was spent happily wandering the narrow streets and plazas visiting souvenir shops and cafes, and catching up with Camino travellers.

By day’s end our mood had been completely lifted and we went to bed excited by the prospect of walking, in comfort, into the mountains that dominated the skyline behind the town.

10 May, 2019

Astorga to Rabanal del Páramo (km 519 to km 540)

Today we left Astorga and began our journey into the mountains, away from the roads and flatlands.

Albergues typically require all pilgrims to be packed and out the door by 8am, and so we stepped out at our customary 7:40am, into a brisk but sunny morning, yesterday’s grey clouds thankfully having stayed away overnight.

After grabbing breakfast at a workman’s bar, we walked out of the town on a quiet road, stopping at the Pilgrim’s chapel to pay our respects to those who have passed away on The Camino. 

The quiet bitumen road we walked on soon downgraded to gravel, and a little further it became a single track pathway, suitable for walkers and cyclists only. It occurred to us that it has been many days since we have walked without a road in sight, or without the need to keep an eye and ear open for vehicles.

Similarly, it had been some time since we had seen large stands of trees naturally occurring, rather than single rows of shade trees planted along the path side. As the day progressed we found ourselves walking through larger and larger areas of trees which we appreciated, both mentally, and physically, due to the increasing heat of the sun.

Tomorrow we pass the highest point on The Camino, and accordingly, today we gradually gained several hundred metres in elevation as we passed through a succession of small, pretty villages.

The day provided the opportunity to befriend several new travellers who had commenced at Astorga, a popular starting point, as well as experience some unique places and sights. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere a man had established a donation tent for a children’s hospital charity. Leo’s donation was rewarded with a chance to hold ‘Julie’ the eagle, and receive a special hot wax seal in his credentiale.

Our day’s destination was Rabanal del Páramo, a town with a long and close association with pilgrims that is evident still today. With a small permanent population, it nevertheless houses many pilgrims each night. The town’s friendly people, plentiful trees, hillside location, and captivating stone buildings made it a very relaxing place to stay.

That evening, before turning in, we attended a traditional pilgrim’s mass. It was conducted in an intimate medieval Knight’s Templar chapel by a Germanic Christian order which has recently taken up this role in the town. It was a special way to focus ourselves for our visit to the Cruz de Ferro the next day, a destination we had been looking forward to from the journey’s beginning.

12 May, 2019

Rabanal del Páramo to Molinaseca (km 540 to km 565)

Today we hiked one of the most significant and enjoyable days of our journey. We stepped out into a stunning morning, and the sound of Johnny Cash filling the air, thanks to the neighbouring bar, which seemed somehow entirely appropriate and uplifting on this special day.

A sunny breakfast was consumed listening to “Don’t take your gun to town”, before surprising Jennie with a Mother’s Day call, and then hoisting our packs and beginning our day’s long ascent. Today The Way became even more intimate, with yellow, white and purple wildflowers closing in on both sides, sometimes obscuring the path itself. We walked quietly, collecting our thoughts for the long-anticipated stop ahead of us, all the while rising higher and higher above surrounding hills and valleys.

The area we were walking often experiences harsh weather and snow, and in many areas the mountain was devoid of trees, having a covering of the low tough vegetation typical of such places. Whilst our mountain had no snow today, the surrounding peaks still retained some of their winter covering, providing a wonderful backdrop under a sunny blue sky.

Late in the morning we arrived at the day’s special destination, the Cruz de Ferro (Cross of Iron) monument. Comprising a simple iron cross atop of a timber pole, it has a long and uncertain history, possibly erected in the early days of the Camino to guide pilgrims through the snow. At the base of the pole is a mound of stones several metres high, most with thoughts and messages written upon them, placed there by pilgrims over many decades.

According to custom, if you bring a small piece of your own home town along with you, you may place it at the foot of the pole and symbolically “leave your burdens behind.” Many say a prayer and reflect upon their purpose for undertaking The Way.

We had come to this place with specific purpose, and had carried with us pieces of the distinctive ochre shale stone from our home. We quietly placed these, whilst thinking of the specific reasons we were here, and our hopes for the future.

After a short while reflecting, and watching successively arriving pilgrims engage with the cross according to their beliefs and thoughts, we quietly moved on. 

Our next stop was the ancient village of Manjarin, now largely derelict and abandoned save a single albergue run by enduring Camino institution Tomás.

Conducting himself in the simple manner of the Templar Knights, Tomás has built a crude but welcoming shelter for pilgrims from the ruins of several buildings over many years. Devoid of power, flushing toilets and running water, it is an albergue very much of the authentic medieval type. A stay at Manjarin is high on many travellers’ list, and others, caught out by harsh weather, have been thankful for it.

We stopped to obtain a stamp in our credentiales, pausing to befriend some of the many animals, and to talk to other pilgrims enjoying bocadillos made from warm fresh bread and handmade cheese.

Whilst the Cruz de Ferro is usually assumed the highest point on the Camino, this actually occurs a few kms later. Arriving there we had a special ceremony of our own to undertake. In the tradition of The Camino, we built a small cairn of rocks, at a bend in the pathway with spectacular views of the surrounding mountain ranges, and placed James’ faithful old boots on it, decorated with wildflowers. Hundreds of pairs of shoes and boots, no longer of use to their original owners, due to fit or condition, can be found as tributes along The Way.

Our official business done, we spent the next few hours negotiating the steep 10km descent. We firstly teamed with Germans Tina and Maria to the town of Acebo, and then, after a late lunch, chatted as we walked with Canadian friends Pat and Delores to Riego de Ambrosias, before moving on to our destination Molinaseca. Another beautiful, ancient, town, entered by a medieval bridge over a fast-flowing stream, it was a welcome sight when it finally came into view. We spent the evening by the stream enjoying a wonderful meal, and watching local families spend time together.

It had been a huge day physically, and emotionally. Sleep came quickly, especially after we located ourselves next to a dormitory window, and made sure it stayed open for the night.

Accommodation: Albergue Compostela, Molinaseca 

13 May, 2019

Molinaseca to Cacabelos (km 565 to km 586)

Today The Way led us through such an amazing array of places that is is difficult to consider they all occurred within a space of just 20km.

Another spectacular spring day met us as we emerged from our albergue into the village’s quiet early morning streets and lanes.

Leaving Molinaseca, The Way led us along the footpath of a busy road towards the major town of Ponferrada, nestled between snow-capped mountains and a large lake. Entering the city, The Camino diverts around a clearly affluent residential area in the foothills, and in doing so took us through an intriguing small ancient and near-derelict village that is slowly collapsing.

Stopping for breakfast in Ponferrada in the shadows of its spectacular 12th century Templar castle, Castillo de Los Templarios, we met Christina from Germany, who was doing The Camino with her dog, Bertl. 

A travelling friendship was immediately struck, especially between Leo and Bertl, and we walked through Ponferrada together. Christina was thankful to have someone to look after Bertl whilst she ducked into various shops to get supplies and Leo was very happy to oblige. She had found the Spanish to have less of a ‘companionship’ approach to dogs than in her native Germany, with many shops, cafes and places of accommodation specifically excluding them. This, and the large dogs loose in country areas, had made her travels challenging on many days. We soon saw firsthand that she had become adept at standing between Bertl, and approaching large dogs, and facing them down.

Leaving town we had to back-track to get some all-important cash to pay for items in the upcoming small towns where cards are of no use, whilst Christina continued onwards. We were planning to stay in the same town that night, and arranged to catch up for dinner.

Through the next few hours we walked through an amazing range of environments, ranging from leafy suburbs, to a shadeless road, edged by endless small-lot market gardens and frequented by delivery vans and local drivers. Barreling around blind corners, always in a hurry, they seemed surprised to be sharing the road with The Camino traffic, requiring constant diligence and many quick diversions into neighbouring fields on our part.

After lunch, The Way suddenly split away from the bitumen roads and towns, and headed into a stunning array of vineyards and forests, laid over small rolling hills and dissected by small streams. After dodging cars and enduring the sun it was like walking into paradise.

We chanced upon a small pop-up cafe located under leafy trees next to a stream, with shaded seating and an inviting hammock. We were behind schedule but we needed no discussion to pull over, pull off the boots and relax for awhile. The trees were blooming and releasing a fine white ‘fluff’ into the air that swirled like snow in the breeze, it was indeed magical.

Suitably refreshed, we hoisted our packs and made the final push into the small town of Cacabelos. After a hot day I was, perhaps disturbingly, excited to discover our albergue had a washing machine, and quickly had our kit drying in the sun. When you are carrying just three sets of clothes, which reek something special at each day’s end, washing clothes every day is a necessity, and hand washing can lose its attraction some days.

As agreed, we met Christina and Bertl for dinner, and arranged to meet in the morning for a very early departure together. As final bonus, our room mates were from South Africa and shared our love of fresh air, and so the window was left open to unanimous approval.

Accommodation: Albergue and Hostal LaGallegos, Cacabelos

14 May, 2019

Cacabelos to Las Herrerías (km 586 to km 616)

Today we stepped out at 6:30am to meet up with Christina and Bertl for an early pre-dawn start. We had a big day’s walk on the agenda, over 30km through initially hilly countryside and then ascending once more into the mountains.

Christina and Bertl had a natural walking pace far greater than our own and by  breakfast time, in (yet another) beautiful town, Villafranca del Bierzo, we had covered almost a third of our planned distance. The first hours had been spent following The Way through the middle of vineyards and witnessing a beautiful dawn whilst Bertl was let off his lead to run freely.

Leaving Villafranca de Bierzo, Christina and Bertl headed off on an optional challenging scenic route through the hills that rose sharply on each side of the valley used by the main Camino pathway. We elected to stay on the main route. Once again we had the same destination and would meet at day’s end.

For the remainder of the day we found ourselves on a road again, walking on the shoulder but separated from the carriageway for much of the way by a continuous crash barrier. Despite being a very warm day, the pathway was thankfully afforded shade for much of the morning from adjacent trees, surrounding hills, and often the bridges of a new highway passing above us.

We were also accompanied by a large fast-flowing stream , which helped to distract our minds from the fact that we were walking on a hard bitumen road and not a soft forest pathway. The smooth surface we were on made moving the feet easy, but extended periods on a road, with packs on, takes its toll.

As the day heated up, and our refreshment stops more frequent, we had the chance to have chats with fellow travellers we had not met before. These included retired US Airforce pilots, and friends, Gregory and Michael ‘Steeges’. Gregory had done the Camino before, and was now bringing his friend to experience it firsthand. 

Leo was clearly intrigued by the lives these men had led, and took the opportunity to continue a chat at each drink stop. They were very obliging, and answered his questions with the same care and consideration as they would an adult. With a similar Camino travelling timeframe as ourselves, it is likely these conversations will be an ongoing occurrence.

We made our way into Las Herrerías late in the afternoon, which proved to be a charming small pilgrim village with a distinctly bohemian feel. We settled into our accommodation, a nicely renovated stone farm building with many thoughtful design touches reflecting the passion of its owner Miriam for supporting pilgrims on The Way.

Showered, we collapsed to enjoy several cold drinks after a big day’s walking, Leo having his in a hammock. We again had dinner with Christina and Bertl before turning in for the night. In the morning we faced the daunting climb to O’Cebreiro.

Accommodation: Albergue Las Herrerías, Las Herrerías

15 May, 2019

Las Herrerías to Fillobal (km 616 to km 642)

Today we stepped out into another glorious Spring day in Spain. We had walked the final km into Las Herrerías the previous afternoon on a small farm road, and today we rejoined it and continued onward. Our morning walk was going to be dominated by the steep 8km climb to the town of O’Cebreiro, described as one of the steepest of The Camino, and as we left our albergue, and turned left, we immediately found the road tilting upward. 

We strode forward easily, passing several travellers who had recently joined the Camino and were now looking like they were regretting their large breakfast and trying to find a dignified way of leaving it somewhere. It was evident that our fitness had improved markedly since struggling up a very similar road up to Orrison Refuge on our very first day, over 600km ago.

The Camino still had some tricks in store, even for seasoned walkers, as we soon found out. The Way veered off the climbing road onto an even steeper muddy and rocky pathway, that climbed through a leafy hillside forest. It was beautiful, but also challenging.

Soon we heard the familiar voice of Gregory calling a morning greeting from behind. Leo stopped for a moment to wait and walk with Steeges, who was following, whilst Gregory and James continued upward. They soon emerged out of the trees and onto a ridge with amazing views. Five minutes later Leo and Stegges could be heard approaching, earnestly discussing the details and virtues of different college pranks. Somewhat surprisingly, it seemed Leo was contributing as much as Steeges.

After a short pause for breath, and photos of the panorama that surrounded us, we restarted and almost immediately passed the marker indicating we were entering Galicia, the final region of the Camino Francés.

We continued to the top, the views absolutely spectacular, changing with every bend in the hillside trail. As we walked, the two retired fighter pilots answered the many questions Leo had about their careers and the technical and political aspects of their flying. It was certainly a unique conversation, interesting to young boys and old alike, and their considered and reflective responses will be remembered by Leo for a long time.

We peeled off to have breakfast at O’Cebreiro, quietly thankful we had not eaten before the climb, whilst the flyers continued onward.

For much of the remaining day we walked across the broad mountain top, alternating between beautiful forests, and clearings offering stunning views from the top of the world. Our guidebook suggested that the afternoon’s walk would be predominantly downward, but it seemed to be quite the opposite in practice, each descent matched shortly afterwards by a seemingly longer ascent. It felt like we would be up there forever. 

The short climb finishing next to Albergue del Puerto goes down in our books as the steepest and most brutal of the entire Camino. The albergue owner had considerately and wisely incorporated both a cafe, offering an endless supply of cold beverages for survivors, and a car park, perfect for ambulances.

It was not until our final hour of walking that the pathway finally tilted downwards in a manner which gave us confidence we were going to get down to our intended lodgings in Fillobal.

Our destination proved to be another wonderful pilgrim’s oasis, a small hamlet with a single, cheerful albergue and co-located restaurant, created from old stone farm buildings. 

In addition to a wonderful hostess and owner, the albergue had a washing machine (!!!) and….we were placed in a bunk next to an open window in a room with no heating. After another amazing day of natural beauty, and wonderful people. it was the perfect ending. 

Accommodation: Albergue Fillobal, Fillobal

16 May, 2019

Fillobal to Sarria (km 642 to km 664)  

This morning we awoke to the pre-dawn sight of the clouds rising in the valleys below our mountainside town, until all the adjacent mountain tops were floating islands in a sea of mist.  By the time we got ourselves out the door, the clouds had completely enveloped the mountains and we stepped out into a misty landscape. 

As we made our way down the mountainside, and into Galicia, it became very evident that this region is very different from its neighbours, and that the nature of The Camino pathway had changed also.

Facing the Atlantic Ocean, Galicia is a much wetter region, laying claim to the highest rainfall in the country. From a farming perspective the countryside we were walking had quickly changed from vineyards, market gardens and food crops to one dominated by dairy cows.

The Camino itself was no longer on the verge of a busy road, or a dedicated hiking pathway, separate from farms and roads. We now found ourselves walking on farming paths, used actively to move cows daily to paddocks and milking sheds. Often towns are a cluster of farms, with cows continuously moving through. In many instances the The Way passes between a farmer’s house, with the kitchen table visible through the open back door, and the farm milking shed just a few metres away.

Galician cows, it seems, have a healthy digestive track. This, and their watery vegetation diet, results in prolific activity with very distinctive, and all-pervasive results. Thus, whilst the sight and sound of big eyed cows mewing in the field is endearing, walking a pathway recently used by a herd through a town, or passing a cow shed, can be an assault on the senses.

We walked through a succession of dairy farms and towns, forever imprinting the smell of Galicia into our olfactory memories, whilst carefully navigating the bovine artwork decorating The Way.

Fortunately, it was not dairy farms all day, and we found ourselves walking some beautiful forest tracks as The Camino navigated its way over hills and down valleys.

As we emerged from the hills and farmland, we travelled the last few kms into the major Camino centre of Sarria with heightening senses of excitement and wariness.

We had a sense that many of our Camino family were converging on Sarria at this time and were excited by this prospect, but also knew that from Sarria there would be a very different crowd on The Way now and that the nature of our walk was about to change.

Pilgrims who walk at least the final 100km, and have their credentiale suitably stamped, can present them in Santiago to obtain a Compostella (certificate of completion). We had been told that, in the face of high unemployment, many young Spaniards seek to add a Compostella to their CV’s. For tourists and others it provides a logical objective for a short journey on The Camino. The large town of Sarria is located slightly over 100km from Santiago and over one third of all people doing The Camino start there.

As we arrived in Sàrria the rain, that had been threatening all day, began to fall, thus ending a magical run of fine weather for us. It was met with mixed feelings. Whilst wearing wet weather gear can be a bit bothersome, we had been hauling ours, comprising over 10% of our carefully managed total pack weight, all this way and it was nice to actually use it and justify the energy expended.

We located our nice albergue in the heart of the main street, surprised to find ourselves as the first to arrive, and therefore able to claim the bunk closest the window.

Pondering what to do for dinner, we received a message from Leandro. He had rented an apartment for the night and was throwing a party for all his Camino friends. We arrived to find the place filled with familiar faces, and the kitchen and barbeque pumping out food. It was a joyous night, with Leo and Leandro dominating the mosh pit to the multinational music selection.

Rushing back to the albergue before lights out, we reflected on another unique, great Camino day, and wondered what tomorrow would bring with the Sarria starters joining us on The Way.

Accommodation: Albergue Internacional, Sàrria Centro

17 May, 2019

Sarria to Portomarin (km 664 to km 687)

Awaking to the sight of heavy, dark, rain clouds filling the sky, we donned our wet weather gear and stepped out into the Main Street of Sarria, just in time for the rain to start.

We travelled 10 metres towards Santiago before stepping into an inviting cafe and ordering breakfast. Our grasp of Spanish must have been improving as our meals were actually what we had tried to order, and the right number. Just days before we had accidentally ordered double serves of everything.

As we ate, we watched the large stream of pilgrims walking out of town, reminding us that the Sarria contingent were now joining The Way.

Our guidebook had warned that we might feel a bit possessive about ‘our’ Camino at this time. We did our best not to feel this way, although subconsciously we found ourselves picking out the long-time travellers by the differences in their clothes, equipment and manner. 

Things like torn clothes, larger backpacks containing all the items required for many weeks rather than four days on the trail, and the odd items hanging on packs and clothes, that only came from the experience of many kms walking, were all tell tale signs of the hardened traveller. They generally looked more relaxed in their gait and strode up hills at a faster pace than the crowd. Veteran pilgrims appeared quiet and calm in contrast to the excited chatter of all the new walkers, who were convening decision making workshops at every cafe and toilet opportunity (which is of course what we had done on our first day)

It was reciprocal of course, with newbies looking at us uncertainly until we gave a smile and a ‘Buen Camino” in welcome. Leo was clearly a point of interest, with his worn clothes and many travel bracelets and pins adorning his arms and clothes suggesting a long journey travelled, that belied his size and young age.

There were signs that some did not take well to the sudden influx of new pilgrims at this point in the route, with the comment “Jesus did not start at Sarria” being scrawled a few times along The Way. Some members of our own Camino family quietly wished that their final few kms of a long personal journey, and the reflection that happens at this time, had not been intruded upon by the crowd of walkers that now filled the pathway. It certainly served to emphasise that we were approaching the end of our special journey in a way that could not be ignored.

It had been pouring cat and dogs as we stepped out of Sarria, (proving our wet weather gear actually worked as well) but soon evolved into a day of warm sun and blue skies, broken by occasional short showers. The Way led us through beautiful rolling countryside and forests, and fortunately very few dairy farms.

We soon passed the official 100km marker, and it really felt like we were on the home straight and we began to relax and simply enjoy the walk with the knowledge that we were actually going to make it.

After meeting less than ten Australians on the whole journey, suddenly we were surrounded by the bastards. They were everywhere. On the off chance you were deaf and couldn’t hear them, they were distinctive in their Kathmandu and AFL gear. (On the Camino you get practiced at identifying someone’s nationality by the brand of their kit) 

We struck up many conversations and found ourselves walking at the excited fast pace of the new pilgrims as we talked. Normally this would have been exactly what we wanted, to help us pass the kms away, but today, unbeknownst to Leo, there was an important reason not to arrive at our destination too early.

Accordingly, James kept looking at his watch, and doing time-distance calculations and then feigning problems with blisters to slow the walking pace. Frequent cafe stops also helped slow progress. Yesterday we would have been lucky to meet two other pilgrims at most cafes and bar stops. Now it was like attending a major outdoor event, with lines at the toilets and also queues waiting to be served.

Eventually we found ourselves on the hill overlooking our destination of Portomarin, a town that was relocated up the hillside in the 1960’s when the original medieval town was flooded by a new dam project. Now a long bridge crosses the water that envelopes the old town, bringing pilgrims into the centre of the new one.

As we approached the bridge, James answered his phone and passed it to Leo. It was his good friend Raphaela from Germany, who had spent 2 weeks walking with Leo on the Camino before returning home, and she was calling to have one of their regular catch-up chats.

We continued, slowly walking across the bridge as the conversation continued, until Leo stopped, looked up and screamed excitedly. There, waiting at the end of the bridge was….Raphaela!