20 April, 2019

Pamplona to Uterga (km67 to km84)

Today the Navarre region and the weather gods conspired to create a wonderful day.

The Camino led us through Pamplona’s beautiful old town before delivering us into the stunning countryside. The white gravel pathway wound its way through vivid green fields of young wheat crops interspersed with streams, wild flowers and hilltop villages.

Learning that Raphaela’s family were ahead, we quickened our pace to meet up, before winding our way through villages and resting to make stone sculptures on the way. 

We chatted and climbed our way to the well-known Pilgrim’s Monument, with views across Navarre, before descending to the small town of Uterga where again we had booked ahead to be sure of a bed.

Accommodation: Albergue Camino del Pardon, Uterga

21 April, 2019

Uterga to Lorca (km84 to km104)

Today, Easter Sunday, we set out under dark skies, travelling through the undulating countryside of Navarre. Breakfast and an Aussie-style Easter egg hunt were conducted, before continuing across the famous Bridge at Puente La Reina to the dramatic sounds of the church bells accompanying the Easter procession and service.

The Camino today was like a small country lane, winding from town to town, always with surprises around the many twists and turns. For many miles we walked upon the remains of a freshly excavated Roman road before arriving at the delightful Aulbergue La Bodega Del Camino in the small town of Lorca.

Accommodation: Albergue La Bodega del Camino, Lorca

22 April, 2019

Lorca to Estella (km104 to km114)

Today we were greeted with glorious sunshine and, after the previous long days we elected to finish the walking early and spend some quality time resting and exploring the beautiful town of Lorca with Raphaela, Ruth and Gunter.

After getting accommodation sorted at the municipal albergue, showered, and our daily washing done, we set out to explore with half a day to spare. It was rumoured that genuine churro was served in the central square cafes where we spent the afternoon relaxing over a long lunch at ‘Camino’ pace and then walking the old town.

In the evening, a chance nightcap reunion with Elizabeth, David and friends from our first night on The Camino, enabled us to exchange news about our original group. Some had already finished their allocated time on The Way, whilst an increasing number were slowing due to blisters or other joint and tendon ailments. To date our group has been lucky to avoid injury although legs and feet are now permanently sore.

Accommodation: Albergue Hospital Peregrino (Municipal), Estella

April 23, 2019

A Camino tale

People are not the only company we keep on our journey to Santiago.

The chance to make a new friend, or observe something only seen when walking, is often just the opportunity needed to give tired legs a moment to rest, and the mind the chance to appreciate all things great and small.

There is nothing like walking to make one appreciate how much is missed travelling in a car in our everyday lives.

23 April, 2019

Estella to Los Arcos (km114 to km 135)

It was with great anticipation that we got ready this morning, as today we would be visiting a Camino landmark that Leo had been eagerly waiting for.

The hustle and bustle of our large Albergue suggested a busy day on the Way, but we stepped out to find few other pilgrims in sight, and we practically had the Camino to ourselves for most of the day.

First stop after breakfast was a blacksmith workshop, where we obtained hand-forged steel scallop-shell pendants for Leo and Raphaela, actually made on the Camino. And then, just a few metres further, we found ourselves at the fabled Fuentes del vino.

This fountain, maintained by the Bodegas Irache winery, offers pilgrims both wine and water, in the tradition of the now-closed ancient Benedictine Monastery adjacent. We, of course, availed ourselves to the offered water and wine, before continuing.

For the rest of the day we were treated to an ever-changing landscape as the pathway led us through fields, forests and towns.

Later in the day we had a ‘Burke and Wills’ expedition moment, when the mobile cafe we had been counting on for refreshment and food on a long stretch, closed and left as we arrived. We took the opportunity to rest in the now abandoned seating shelters, whilst explaining the story of the ‘Dig Tree’ to our German companions, before making our final push to Los Arcos under threatening skies.

Accommodation : Albergue Isaac Santiago (Municipal – run by Flemish Confraternity), Los Arcos

24 April, 2019

Los Arcos to Viana (km 135 to km 154)

After a cold and rainy night, and a forecast of more to come, we were pleasantly surprised to step out into a clear morning on The Way. The warm sun provided relief on the back of our aching legs, and the blue sky lifted spirits after the recent grey days.

Unfortunately the fine weather was short-lived with rain clouds soon rolling in and the temperature dropping markedly for the rest of the day.

As we dodged rain showers the Camino led us up and down a seemingly endless array of gullies and ravines. Hilltop medieval towns and path-side chapels in the fields provided welcome places of respite from the cold wind, and an opportunity to rest sore feet, whilst having a warming drink and snack.

Fortunately, the grey weather did not dampen the spirits of the children, and we were treated to many hours of singing as we made our way.

Leo and Raphaela had discovered a shared love of song that had quickly bridged initial shyness and differences in native language. In the intervening days a repertoire of favourite songs emerged, ranging from the beautiful and melodic, to the strange and absurd. It will take some time for such tunes as ‘Fat Labrador’ and ‘Pineapple Pen’ to be forgotten by those exposed to them on a repeated basis.

One that was enjoyed by all, was the German song “weihnachten is da”, an original Christmas song that Raphaela had helped record to raise money for a children’s cancer charity. It was performed as a duet on many occasions, with Leo’s German pronunciation improving each time.

During the day’s journey we found ourselves walking through a succession of vineyards with little beehive-shaped stone huts which we hadn’t seen before. We were told later they were guardaviñas (vineyards guards), and that they were built by farmers for “Fields Guards” to shelter in whilst protecting the grapes from birds (and passing pilgrims) during harvest time. Unfortunately for is we were travelling at the wrong time of year to sample these grapes that needed guarding.

The day’s taxing terrain and weather finally took it’s toll and we elected to stop at the beautiful town of Viana and, as many others had made the same decision and filled the albergues, we treated ourselves to hotel rooms. As we walked inside, the rain really began to fall.

Accommodation: Hotel Pujadas, Viana

25 April, 2019

Viana to Logroño (km154 to km 164)

Once again, after a night of constant rain, the new day dawned fine and sunny for what was planned to be a short leg, just 10km from Viana to Logroño.

Today was the day we would our farewells to Raphaela and her family, who were returning home. After saying our fond farewells to Günter, who was leaving us at Viana, we commenced our walk to Logroño with Raphaela and Ruth, where they were due to catch a bus home later in the day.

The sunny weather, generous timeframe, and the knowledge that our time together would end when our destination was reached, ensured that our walk turned into a slow stroll. Opportunities to interact with animals were taken at every opportunity, including a valiant attempt to resuscitate a drowning wasp, which alas, sadly did not recover.

As we [gradually] approached Logroño there were signs confirming we had moved from the region of Navarre to that of La Rioja. The first was the appearance of the famous red soil of this wine region, so similar to that of our homeland. It is beautiful when dry, but, as we discovered after the night’s rain, horrendous when wet, sticking in great quantities to boots like glue. Fortunately we were not travelling in wetter weather.

The other was a the gateway to the city, the house of the late ”Felisa” Medel, who for many decades sat at a small table and stamped the credential of pilgrims, along with offerings of fruit and greetings. We were lucky to have our credentials stamped by her daughter Maria who now sometimes sits at her Mother’s table.

Despite best efforts, we arrived in the old city centre, where, after a long lunch, final farewells were exchanged and we reluctantly left towards our respective destinations.

We located the municipal albergue where we contemplated the end of a wonderful time with Raphaela and her family, and wondered what the time ahead would bring.

Accommodation: Albergue De Peregrino de Logrono (municipal), Logrono

25 April, 2019

ANZAC Day

Today, as we think about this day of reflection and remembrance, we find ourselves walking through fields and olive groves edged with wild poppies. 

25 April,2019

A Camino Tale

Today we said our sad farewells to Raphaela, and her parents Ruth and Günter as they returned to Germany. Having commenced the Camino on the same day, and been part of the small group who shared their first night at Refuge Orrison, where each pilgrim introduced themselves and gave their reasons for travelling, we were part of the same Camino family that would bond in the days to follow.

Günter was an experienced Camino traveller, and was being accompanied for the first time by Ruth and Raphaela, so that they could experience first hand its unique attraction. Their plan was a nine-day walk to Logroño.

It was on the fourth day, after the shared challenges of the Pyrenees crossing, and the accommodation shortage that followed, that we found ourselves at the same Way-side cafe with the first real chance to talk. Despite some initial shyness, broken by Leo’s gift of a kangaroo pin to Raphaela, the friendship between the children, and parents, was immediate.

For the following 7 days we were constant travelling companions, with Leo and Raphaela becoming a well known fixture of The Way on account of their young age, constant companionship, singing and laughter. Such was the affection of the Camino community for the pair that many tears we shed by other pilgrims witnessing Leo and Raphaela’s final goodbye in Logroño’s central plaza.

Günter’s invaluable knowledge and perspective of the Camino helped to guide our group’s progress, and also assisted us making our forward plans to ensure we knew about things and places we should not miss.

Ruth’s mastery of Spanish ensured that we could find accommodation each night, and that our attempts at ordering food did not have unintended consequences. James and Ruth spent many enjoyable hours comparing first-time impressions of The Camino, and talking of things that it provides time to think about, whilst gently shepherding the children onwards.

We consider ourselves very lucky to have had our time on The Camino together and our memories, and experience will always remain richer for it.

So as they say, this is not goodbye, but rather au revoir for now.

26 April, 2019

Logroño to Ventosa (km164 to km 184)

After a night in a full and vibrant municipal aulbergue, we stepped out onto near empty streets, shared only with street sweepers and early delivery vans.

The day was clear, but cool and breezy, and we stopped for our now-regular breakfast of hot beverages and croissants at a bar, before hitting the trail

Today The Way led us from Logroño’s very pretty old town to the small country town of Ventosa (pop 150). For many kms beyond the city we found ourselves on an easy but austere concrete bikeway. It felt strange to be walking alone again and the surroundings and cold wind made motivation low and progress slow.

However, it was to be a day of encountering old friends who were always extremely happy to see us and this lifted our spirits and carried us forward.

Eventually the concrete surface finished and we found ourselves walking through rolling countryside for the rest of the day. We climbed into the beautifully preserved medieval hill-top town of Navarrete and stopped for lunch. In the cafe we were very surprised and pleased to discover Marsal, a Brazilian artist with whom we had shared our very first night in St Jean PDP and not seen since. A wonderful reunion and long lunch followed.

Setting out on our final section, we found ourselves walking into the vineyards of La Rioja. The walking surface changed from the typical hard grey gravel we had become accustomed to, to soft read earth, very similar to trails in South Australia. The physical relief on our feet was immediate, and the visual familiarity seemed to also have lifted our spirits as well as we finished our walk in

Accommodation: Albergue San Saturnino, Ventosa